Hanfu Goes Global with Guochao: Skirt-Robe Sets and Deep Robes
Hanfu: A Symbol of Millennia of Cultural Continuity
Hanfu, deeply interwoven with the cultural fabric of the Huaxia civilization, stands as a powerful emblem of national identity. Whether through the meticulously crafted costumes in hit historical dramas such as The Longest Day in Chang'an, The Wind Blows From Longxi, or The Glory of Tang Dynasty, or the casual yet evocative ensembles worn by groups of Hanfu enthusiasts in everyday settings, this traditional attire vividly reflects the Chinese people's growing confidence in their heritage.
However, many might wonder: What exactly defines Hanfu? What are its essence and subtleties? And in this revival movement, what aspects of Hanfu are truly being brought back?
While the term "Hanfu" itself did not exist before the Han dynasty, it was closely associated with "Huafu," meaning "clothing of the Huaxia people." Today, Hanfu is often viewed as the epitome of Chinese traditional clothing—a collection of styles that embodies the sartorial heritage of the Han people.
To truly revive Hanfu is to restore two key aspects:
- Classic Clothing Systems: This includes the coordinated dress codes, ceremonial practices, and contextual uses of traditional attire.
- Visual and Material Culture: Encompassing signature styles such as the two primary types—shangru (top and skirt sets) and shenyi (deep robes)—as well as accessories like headpieces, shoes, hair ornaments, makeup, and jewelry. A deeper understanding of the latter can illuminate the structured elegance of the former.
The Splendor of Hanfu Across Dynasties
Han Dynasty
This era saw the rise of defining features such as cross-collared tops and the "right lapel" overlap. Iconic garments like the shenyi and shangru originated in this period. Shenyi, commonly used as ceremonial wear, was designed for practicality, with its curved hem facilitating ease of movement. As fashion evolved, variations like the straight-lapelled chan yu robe became prevalent, influencing later forms of formal attire.
Tang Dynasty
The Tang dynasty introduced opulent innovations. Women often wore short tops with high-waisted, colorful skirts, paired with lightweight scarves (pibo). Skirts featured vivid hues like scarlet and emerald, along with bold patterns. Tang-era hairstyles and cosmetics, such as elaborate buns and delicate forehead embellishments, conveyed a liberated and cosmopolitan aesthetic.
Song Dynasty
Simplicity and elegance defined Song-era attire. Outfits emphasized slender silhouettes, with staples like beizi (a long, narrow-sleeved robe). Accessories such as pleated skirts and subtle makeup enhanced the natural beauty of the wearer, reflecting a more understated approach compared to Tang opulence.
Ming Dynasty
Ming dynasty fashion blended tradition with innovation, reinstating Tang and Song clothing systems while incorporating Mongolian influences. Iconic garments included bijia (sleeveless jackets) and yisan (robes with pleated waistlines). These designs emphasized versatility and a dignified, structured look.
A Modern Perspective on Hanfu
Today, Hanfu transcends its traditional roles, finding a place in everyday fashion and international cultural exchange. Each dynasty's styles offer timeless inspiration, making Hanfu a living art form that resonates with both heritage and modernity.
In an era of Guochao—the rise of Chinese cultural trends—Hanfu serves as a bridge, allowing individuals to explore the past while celebrating their identity. By understanding its history and artistry, we not only honor tradition but also embrace innovation, ensuring that Hanfu continues to captivate and inspire future generations.