What are the basic shapes and systems of Hanfu？
Quji (曲裾)
- Style: Split design (Upper and lower separated)
- The Quji, also known as the "Curved Hem Robe" or "Round Collar Robe," originated in the Pre-Qin to Han periods. It features an upper garment and lower skirt design, commonly referred to as "Deep Robe" in Hanfu classifications. Contemporary versions include single or multiple wraps of the robe or shorter styles showing an under-skirt.
Aoqun (袄裙)
- Style: Upper garment and lower skirt design
- Aoqun refers to a style with a layered double-layered top called an "Ao," paired with a pleated skirt or horse-faced skirt. This style started in the Tang dynasty and flourished during the Ming dynasty.
Banbi Ruzhi (半臂襦裙)
- Style: Upper garment and lower skirt design
- This style features a short, half-sleeve outer garment, often paired with a long skirt. It was popularized during the Tang dynasty and originated in the Sui dynasty.
Beizi (褙子)
- Style: Upper garment and lower skirt design
- Beizi, also known as "Back Robe" or "Chaozi," is a long, straight-cut top with a high opening at the sides, typically paired with a pleated skirt. It was common in the Song dynasty and remains popular today.
Bijia (比甲)
- Style: One-piece design
- Bijia originated in the Song dynasty, a long, sleeveless cover garment often worn by Mongol soldiers. It was adapted for horseback riding and featured a back longer than the front.
Doupeng (斗篷)
- Style: One-piece design
- Doupeng is a sleeveless outer garment, originally made of hemp to shield from rain. It became popular as a winter garment in the Ming and Qing dynasties.
Jiaoling Ruzhi (交领襦裙)
- Style: Upper garment and lower skirt design
- This style features a cross-collar top paired with a pleated skirt. It is a versatile Hanfu, common for both men and women.
Qixiong Ruzhi (齐胸襦裙)
- Style: Upper garment and lower skirt design
- A high-waisted style that emerged during the Sui and Tang periods, now called "Chest-high Ruzhi" to reflect the high waistband.
Qiyao Ruzhi (齐腰襦裙)
- Style: Upper garment and lower skirt design
- This style features a skirt waist aligned with the waistline. It was common in both men's and women's fashion and appears in various forms, including cross-collar and straight-collar versions.
Tanling Ruzhi (袒领襦裙)
- Style: Upper garment and lower skirt design
- Featuring an open U-shaped collar, this style was popular during the Tang dynasty, particularly influenced by nomadic cultures.
Zaji (杂裾)
- Style: Split design
- The Zaji is a variation of the Quji robe, with a wide, pointed hem like a swallowtail, seen in the Wei Jin period. This style featured flowing ribbons that fluttered as the wearer moved.
Zhi Ji (直裾)
- Style: Split design
- The Zhi Ji, or "Straight Hem Robe," was a simpler, more practical design with straight-cut hems and no embellishments. It became common after the Han dynasty.
Dachang (大氅)
- Style: One-piece design
- Dachang, also called "Crane Robe," was worn as an outer garment for warmth. It was popular among scholars in the Ming dynasty, often worn to shield against wind and cold.
Dao Pao (道袍)
- Style: One-piece design
- The Dao Pao is a robe style associated with Daoist attire and was worn by both scholars and monks. It originated in the Zhou dynasty and evolved into a formal robe for religious ceremonies.
Lan Shan (襕衫)
- Style: One-piece design
- Lan Shan originated in the Tang dynasty, with the "horizontal lan" seam on the lower part of the robe. It was widely used by scholars during the Song and Ming dynasties.
Duan He (短褐)
- Style: Upper garment and lower skirt design
- A working-class garment made of coarse cloth, Duan He was often worn by the laboring class and became synonymous with everyday attire.
Ye Sha (曳撒)
- Style: Upper garment and lower skirt design
- The Ye Sha, originally a Mongolian robe, became popular during the Ming dynasty as riding and military apparel.
Yuanling Pao (圆领袍)
- Style: One-piece design
- The Yuanling Pao features a round collar and was popular during the Northern Wei dynasty. It became formal attire for the ruling class and common people in later dynasties.
Zhi Luo (直裰)
- Style: One-piece design
- Zhi Luo is a male garment originating in the Song dynasty, worn by scholars and gentlemen. It is a straight-cut garment and remains a traditional style in modern Hanfu fashion.
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