Traditional culture | Hanfu
Hanfu
Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Han nationality. Also known as clothes, clothes, Han clothing. Hanfu is the embodiment of China's "nation of clothes", "land of rites" and "splendid China". It carries China's outstanding craftsmanship and aesthetics such as dyeing and weaving, and inherits more than 30 Chinese intangible cultural heritages and protected Chinese arts and crafts.
Hanfu "originated from the Yellow Emperor, prepared by Yao and Shun", originated from the Yellow Emperor made corona-style clothing; After the establishment of the Zhou Dynasty, the Han Dynasty and the Ming Emperor of the Han Dynasty, the complete system was finally determined. Since then, each Huaxia dynasty Zong Zhou Fahan to inherit the Han Dynasty clothing as a state event, so there is the 24 history of the Yu Fu records. "Yellow Emperor, Yao, Shun hang clothes and rule the world, benefit from the Qiankun", it means that the shape of the shirt is determined by the will of God, is sacred.
Similar to the word Han people, the meaning of "Han" in Hanfu also has a process of expanding from the Han dynasty to the whole nation. For example, the earliest record of "Hanfu" in the Book of Mawangdui No. 3 Tomb is as follows: "Four beautiful people, two Chu clothes, two Han clothes" in the "Hanfu" refers to the dress etiquette system of the Han Dynasty, that is, the crown clothing system in the "Zhou Li", "Yi Li" and "Li Ji"; The book was written in the Tang Dynasty, "Man Book" records: "At the beginning of the Hanfu, after a little to participate in the military customs, but so far, but the morning xia wrapped the head, the rest of the" Hanfu "refers to the Han people's dress etiquette system.
Hanfu has also influenced the whole Han cultural circle through the Chinese legal system, and the national costumes of Asian countries such as Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Mongolia, Bhutan, etc., have or learn from the characteristics of Hanfu.
Armorial Cloth Of Hanfu
Hanfu is an integrated clothing system consisting of clothes, headwear, hair styling, face decoration, shoes and accessories, which concentrates the outstanding craftsmanship and aesthetics of Chinese culture such as textile, batik, quilting and brocade, and inherits more than 30 pieces of Chinese intangible cultural heritage.
Hanfu cloth since the Yellow Emperor mainly has two kinds of ramie and silk, generally known as cloth, respectively by the dian 枲, dian silk in charge, another set of palm ge levied to do the ramie cloth. The cloth is also called xiabao, which is the cloth of mourning, sacrifice and deep clothing. The finer part of the cloth is called dry silk. In summer, garnet gauze is used in winter, so it is called winter cotton summer cotton, summer yarn and winter crepe. To the Eastern Han Dynasty, Hainan and Yunnan began to rise cotton spinning and weaving. Cloth according to the textile process, warp and weft organization can be subdivided into brocade, twill, silk, silk, silk, silk, crepe, silk, satin and so on. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, in addition to Qi Wan and Lu Yu, there were also Wu satin, Yue Luo, Chu silk, Shu brocade and other famous products. Later, the Northern Song court set up a "brocade courtyard" in Tokyo and recruited many Shu brocade weavers to make dresses for the nobility, thus forming Song brocade. Nanjing, the capital of Ming Dynasty, formed the Yunjin. Weaving gold, brocade, silk and twill are the most expensive fabrics, and the crown is made of green robe, red robe and red robe. Official robes are made of twill. The chest and back of the official dress are made of the most exquisite makeup brocade in the cloud brocade.
Zhou Li stipulated that dyeing people should be engaged in printing and dyeing, and set up officials specializing in the management of vegetable dyes to be responsible for "palm dyeing grass" for the use of impregnating clothes. The traditional printing and dyeing of Hanfu can be divided into mineral dyeing and grass dyeing. Mineral dyeing materials include cinnabar, stone yellow, air green, stone green, Hu powder, mirage, carbon black. Traditional plant and wood dyeing materials include indigo, safflower, dark plum, amalum, sapwood, barberry, alum, amaranth, locust flower, gallogallol, bayberry bark, Bluetooth leaf, lotus seed shell, mung bean powder and so on.
Clamping valerian, waxing valerian and twisting valerian are unique printing processes in Hanfu printing and dyeing. Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty ordered artisans to print colorful valerian skirt, which was used to reward the wives and mothers of palace women and officials. Ash valerian is a substitute for batik since the Tang Dynasty. The grey valerian cloth dyed with blue grass is called blue calico cloth, which was called medicine spot cloth in ancient times. Zhou Li also set up "Dian Fu Gong", "sewers" and other positions responsible for embroidery. "Zhou Rites · Painting" said: "five picks, called embroidery." According to the traditional habits of different regions, different styles and characteristics of embroidery have been formed. Among them, the most famous are Suzhou embroidery in Jiangsu Province, Xiang embroidery in Hunan Province, Shu embroidery in Sichuan Province and Guangdong embroidery in Guangdong Province, which are known as the four famous embroideries in China.
The application of Hanfu in etiquette
Hanfu is a necessary part of Chinese etiquette. China is also known as "Huaxia", the origin of this name is related to Hanfu. "Shangshu Justice" note: "Corona-clothing Hua Zhang said, big country said summer." "Zuo Zhuan justice · Ding Gong Ten years" sparse: "China has etiquette, so called summer; The beauty of a dress is called China." Since ancient times, China has been known as "the country of clothes and rites", and "clothes" has become a synonym for civilization, but also a part of Chinese etiquette. The rites of Zhou rites are divided into five rites and eight principles, which include: auspicious rites, fierce rites, binning rites, military rites and Jia rites; The eight main principles include: crown ceremony, wedding ceremony, funeral ceremony, sacrifice ceremony, hometown ceremony, shooting ceremony, court ceremony and betrothal gift. Crown ceremony and wedding ceremony are the core of Jia Li. Sacrificial rites are auspicious rites. "Zhu Zi Tong Meng Notice" said, "the learning of the husband Tong Meng begins with clothes and shoes." Dress is the beginning of etiquette. Before the crown ceremony, "clothes no silk trousers". You can only wear fur and silk when you are twenty.
The tiara ceremony is a rite of passage for men and the tiara for children. In the Zhou Dynasty, the scholar-officials were crowned in their 20th year and the princes were crowned in their 15th year. "Li Ji · Guan Yi" said: "Already crown and ambition, the way of adult is also". After the three princes and the crown prince, they will add Xuanmian again.
Hair-pinning ceremony is a woman's coming-of-age ceremony, that is, pull the hair behind the head to do a bun, with a hairpin. Zheng Xuan notes the "Ceremonial Shizuguan Ceremony" said: "hair-pinning female ceremony still crown male also, so that the main woman to perform its ceremony." Women who have been married hold the hairpin ceremony at the age of 15, and those who have not been married hold another ceremony at the age of 20. According to the "Rites of the History of Song", the hairpin ceremony of the princess of the Song Dynasty is imitatured to the concubine's crown. The ceremony consists of three crowns and costumes: the first plus the crown and then the crown 朶, three plus nine four Fengguan.
Wedding is one of the rites, can be divided into ritual wedding, court wedding, public wedding. In the Tang and Song systems, men were married with coronas for more than four products, with jue bens for more than nine products, and with Jiang Gong for the concubine. The woman is married in ceremonial clothes or with her dress.
Sacrifice is the ritual system of offering sacrifices to gods and ancestors, which is the highest etiquette in China. The ritual consists of six crowns and a saguaro. A deacon's robe, his own. The wife of a scholar is clothed 褖 as a deacon.
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